Plant pear trees as ornamental specimens around the yard. They are quite attractive, so do not relegate them to the food garden area or the back. Planted in rows, dwarf types can serve as screens. Pear trees are also well adapted to espalier training along a south facing wall. They are a good choice of fruit tree for small gardens. Dwarf pear tree varieties can also be grown in containers.

Pears trees can usually be grown wherever apples are successful, though they are somewhat less resistant than apples to extremes of heat and cold. Common pear is comfortable as far north as the Great Lakes and northern New York, as well as along the Atlantic Coast into Maine (zone 4). Properly cared for, it can withstand winter temperatures as low as –10°F.

Most types of pear trees, especially those with silvery foliage, like full sun. They are not terribly demanding about soil type, as long as it is reasonably fertile. They prefer a slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5). Because frost can damage flowers and reduce yields, try to locate pears on a slope for better air circulation and drainage, or on the north side of a building to delay flower development. While many catalogs advertise pear trees that are self-pollinating, it is best to have at least two trees in proximity to one another to ensure the best harvest of fruit. Almost any two varieties are compatible for pollination, with the exception of any combination of Magness, Waite, Bartlett and Seckel. If you want one of these, make sure to choose a second tree not in this group.

Plant pear trees in the early spring while they are still dormant. Space dwarf trees from 12 to 15 feet apart. Standard trees should be spaced from 20 to 25 feet apart. The best planting height for either containerized or bare rooted trees is from 5 to 8 feet. If you are planting in a container, use one that is a minimum of 24 inches in diameter and at least as deep. All types of pear trees are weakly rooted, especially when young, so extra care must be taken in preparing the soil at the planting site. Add peat, compost if it is available, or other organic material to the loosened soil in the hole to facilitate root development when the tree is planted. Dig the hole large enough to accommodate the roots when they are spread out. Its depth depends to some extent on the rootstock: The tree should sit in its hole so that the graft point, the bulging part of the trunk, is from just above to 1 inch above the soil line. Fill the hole with soil and tamp it down firmly. Insert a stake in the ground at this time, making sure that it is sturdy enough to support the young tree for a year or two at least. Water generously and frequently at planting time over the next few weeks to help the young tree to become established.